Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Peru: Puno/ Lake Titicaca 2013

Inca Express
Our next destination was to Puno; which was about a 6 hour drive from Cuzco. We had the option of flying, taking the train, or taking a bus. Flying wasn't really an option for us; we didn't want to spend the money. The train would be more comfortable but would take longer than the bus and was more expensive. Being stuck on a bus all day sounded a bit miserable as well but it was the more economic choice, HOWEVER, we found one tour bus that would pick you up in Cuzco, make stops along the way, provided lunch and then end in Puno. It was a little bit more than taking a regular bus but not much and it made sense to have a productive day and learning more about the country rather than just sitting on a bus. So we signed up for the Inca Express Bus.

We stopped at a museum and learned about how the Incas believed in child sacrafice. To be honest, it was interesting but it also was kind of gross and there was not a good feeling there. Our faces show how we felt about it.


Cobble stones in a church court yard
Ruins of an Inca Village. In the picture on the left it shows that they left a section open down the middle of the village. It was built so that the winter solstice moon would shine directly over the space.
Kirsta and I may have started to make up our own facts while walking around the ruins. When coming up to these random square piles of rocks, Krista said, "This is where they did dutch oven"
This is me trying to jump off the wall but I did so very awkwardly because I was still super sore from all the hiking around Machu Picchu. Pretty much I took a giant step and fell down.
Just a cool bike-cart thing I wanted to take a picture of.
Tallest point on this drive: a glacier!
Behind us, the white area between the two peaks, is the glacier.
We learned about Vicunas (Sounded like Coonyas), a type of mammal from the llama family. It is endangered because of poachers; their fur is REALLY expensive (at least that's what all of our guides told us but then they all gave different estimates of how much the fur cost). Our tour guide told us we could pet them but only on the head. Krista only heard that we could pet them and then she pet it's back. I may have laughed when the museum man yelled at her. At least she could speak spanish and smooth it over with him.
A woman selling cheese on a street corner.
A neighborhood we drove through
I took this picture because it showed such a different culture than what we are used to.

Lake Titicaca
We went on a two day trip to Lake Titicaca; the world's highest navigable lake. It was so large that once we were out on the lake I felt like I was in the ocean because you could not see land in any direction (unless it was a island). For our two day trip we visited the floating Islands and then two "stationary" islands; on one of the "stationary" islands we spent the night we a family there.

The funny thing about this tour was that we were never sure if we were actually with the right tour group. When they picked us up from our hostal they stuck us in a taxi cab, with other members of our tour group, and then sent the taxi on its way. Umm... ok...  I guess we're not going to worry since we're with other tourist. The taxi showed up at the marina where two ladies greeted us and then just pointed us toward a string of boats. We walked over to the boats and then people just started telling us to get on and then away we went. Not once did anyone ask for our name and check it off from a list. We really were just waiting for a moment when they would do "roll call" and realize that we weren't supposed to be with the group. We lucked out... not once was "roll call" ever taken.
On the boat... Puno in the distance


Floating Islands
The floating islands are actual floating islands, made out of reeds, that small (very small) communities live on.

The leader of this floating island and our tour guide are showing us how they build the islands.
We learned that they have to lay a new layer of reeds every 11-15 days. We also learned that when an island doesn't want a member on their island anymore, they'll simply cut their section off from the island, haha. But sometimes two islands will merge together and create one community and they'll tie the two islands together so that they form together.
One of the homes on the island.
We asked our tour guide where the people go to the bathroom and he told us that they pee behind their homes but if they need to go No. 2 they have a small platform off the island that they go on and then cover the waste in ash.
Some of the cute kids on the island
A lot of travel gets done between the floating islands on these reed boats. We got to take a ride in one.

Amantani Island
This was the first island we went to and spent the night with a family. On the island we had home cooked meals, hiked and went dancing.
This is the home we stayed in. Such a humbling experience.
There were three bedrooms in this home; one for the family we stayed with and the other two for visitors like us. The kitchen was a small separate building, that I had to duck in the doorway to enter, with a wood burning stove; the sweet woman cleaned our dishes outside with the hose. The bathroom was another separate tiny building that was big enough to hold a sink and a toilet. Where was the shower? Oh don't worry, there was a small shower head poking out of the ceiling above the toilet. We truly have so much here in the U.S.
Inside our room
The door into our room and the view from our window
The first meal Isabelle made for us: "salad," potatoes (which I thought some of them looked like roots and/or large larva) and fried cheese.
Isabelle's Home
Sunset on the lake
Dancing in the traditional clothing. It was hilarious; after we ate dinner Isabel and her daughter barged into our room and started dressing us in this clothing (we had no choice!). The thick belts around our waists were REALLY tight; so tight we thought we were going to pass out from lack of oxygen and halfway through the dance we had to sneak outside and loosen them. Now I know how Elizabeth Swan felt in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Island of Tequila
This was just another stationary island on Lake Titicaca that we visited and hiked from one side to the other. We learned that this island is known for the best male weavers in the world; the men weave on this island, not the women.


This boy is wearing a hat that actually shows your marital status! Part of the traditional clothing worn by the men on the Island of Tequila is a hat. Little boys wear a hat like the one in this picture but they let the white part fall behind their head. When the boys reach a certain age they wear the hat so that the white part falls to the side of their head; it falls on the left when they are single and it falls on the right when they are dating someone. When they get married they wear a hat that is completely red.

Puno
Puno is the big city by Lake Titicaca. I felt like it was a mini, peruvian New York City. I told a friend this, who served his mission in Peru, and he laughed and said that the people there refer to Puno as their New York City. I wouldn't say it had the class and expensive things of New York City but it was crowded with people and cars and taxis like New York City. I didn't love Puno, there didn't seem like much to do there, but our only purpose in being there was just so that we could visit Lake Titicaca.
The church at the Main Plaza

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Peru: Machu Picchu 2013

Machu Picchu! Known as the Lost City of the Incas; this is why you go to Peru or at least what Peru is known for when it comes to travel. This was the reason why Krista wanted to go to Peru and I'm so glad she did and that I went with her because this trip was amazing. Machu Picchu is this ancient city and civilization that nobody knew about until an explorer found the ruins. All of the facts about this place is speculation. I can't believe I'm doing this but here is a link to Wikipedia for some reader's digest facts about Machu Picchu.

PeruRail
We took the PeruRail from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes. It was a beautiful ride and they fed us breakfast; which we got really excited about and high-fived each other. We bought our tickets ahead of time on their website. Be careful when selecting your trains; our return train only went half way back to Cuzco (we picked the wrong destination, woops, but our solution was memorable and I blog about it at the end of this post).


They just announced over the intercom that we would be getting breakfast!

Aguas Caliente
The only civilized city near Machu Pichu is Aguas Calinete. It reminded me of a Peruvian Park City; not in comparison to the wealth, no not at all, just the idea of having a city tucked up into the mountains. There are no roads to Aguas Caliente and so there are no cars. The only way to get there is by the train. There are busses there to take you up to Machu Picchu so we figured those were brought up on a train. We saw people all over pushing carts and wheelbarrows around to transport supplies and other things. We stayed at the SuperTramp Hostal; haha yes, that is the real name of it. It has a sketchy name but it had great reviews on Trip Advisor and we really liked it. We even met these two girls from Switzerland, who had been traveling through South America for about 6 weeks, there.


The view of Aguas Calientes while on a hike

Mount Putucusi
Since we had spare time on our first day in Aguas Calientes we decided to go on a hike. A friend of mine had told me about this hike and Krista had read about it in her Peru book. This hike was difficult but I absolutely loved it; it was worth every step, every raindrop, every break after two switchbacks... it was worth it! Krista's book said it was a simple hike, ha! Hardly, but again... worth it! The hike started at the base of the mountain with the destination being... THE TOP. Now this mountain didn't gradually get taller, nope, it went straight up, had a hill at the top and then back down again. The first half of the hike was actually climbing these incredibly tall ladders up the side of the mountain. Scary you might ask... nah... It was fun!

At the top
Climbing the ladders


After the ladders we had switchbacks for about 40 minutes. They looked easy but at a higher elevation it was hard. The area around Machu Picchu is about 3 times higher than Salt Lake City. After every two switchbacks we would have to stop and catch our breath. Krista even said, "This is so sad! We are very in shape! You're a crazy runner and I'm an active soccer player!" We had a lot of laughs on this hike. I'm making it sound like we climbed Everest... no, this hike is doable, we just had to slow down and be sure to take breaks.
When we got to the top we walked through some bushes, around some boulders and then... wham! Right in front of you, across the valley, is Machu Picchu! It was such a beautiful scene we were so excited that we both jumped up and cheered!

Machu Picchu is framed between us in the distance
Our preview to Machu Picchu

On this hike we met our second most favorite person on the entire trip: Wellington! He was this 60-year-old Peruvian man from Lima who basically sprinted passed us up the mountain. At the top he laughed at us when we cheered, took pictures of us in front of Machu Picchu and then taught us about the history and restoration of Machu Picchu. On the way down the mountain it started pouring and so he stayed with us to make sure we got down safely. We were perfectly fine but it was so cute how concerned he was for us and even though he kept about 10 paces in front of us, he would patiently wait for us, if we got behind, and then point out a slippery rock or remind us to keep 3 points of contact on the ladder at all times. One of our regrets of the trip was not getting a picture with him. *hitting hand to forehead*

Machu Picchu
We got up at 4am in order to eat a good breakfast and be over to the busses by 5am to take us up to the entrance of Machu Picchu. We were one of the first people into Machu Picchu and we literally sprinted to the lookout over Machu Picchu (once we got there we had to catch our breath for a minute). We first did a run through Machu Picchu getting as many scenic pictures as we could without tourists in them; it was amazing. Once we went through Machu Picchu on warp speed we then went through it again at our own pace and took our sweet time as we learned about the structures and the culture. We referred to Krista's Peru book for most of it but once in awhile we would listen in on other tour groups and their guide. We did have few times where we would guess the facts and stories about things we saw and then later figure out what it really was. Oooooh!

Machu Picchu is quite a maze and so each time we would go through it we would find something new OR we would see an area from an overlook area and have to try to figure how to get to the area we were looking at.

Oh! If you ever go to Machu Picchu, get your passport stamped! They stamp your passport for entering Machu Picchu; I had them stamp it next to my stamp for entering Peru. It's not advertised, you have to know about it and ask; luckily someone told us about it.

Waiting just outside the gates to go into Machu Picchu
The overlook of Machu Picchu
We went up and down a lot of stairs that day, I thought they should be documented.
Here's an example of the cool rocks that were chiseled perfectly to fit together without anything holding them together.

This is a rock that gives scientists the theory that Machu Picchu may have been abandoned quickly because it is just laying there in the middle of production. I was trying to help put it back where it needed to go.
Try and guess what this is!
I guessed a mountain goat and Krista guessed a mountain.
It is a condor and it was in the temple of the condor.
Machu Picchu Llamas
In the area of Machu Picchu where there are a lot of "homes" each home had an alter like this. I decided it was a pulpit where the family would give talks.
While wondering around in the maze we passed this "X" several times and every time I would get excited that it would be a place we could go into and then see the x and I would say, "El Stupido X!"
This crazy rabbit-rat thing we saw
Machu Picchu Giant Centipede
Tourists
This was cool! These boulders are shaped to look exactly like the mountain rage behind them in the distant.

It started raining on us... we stayed for two more hours.


Waynapicchu
Connected to Machu Picchu is the mountain Waynapicchu that you can hike to the top of. In order to hike it you have to get a permit; luckily we got ours ahead of time. This was another steep hike that ended with a rewarding overlook of Machu Picchu. This hike did not have ladders but it did have extremely narrow stairs; so narrow that you had to walk sideways up and down them. If I HAD to choose be Waynapicchu and Putucusi I would choose Putucusi but I'm glad we did both.

At the top of Waynapicchu
While we were taking this picture an old Australian man came around the corner, fist pumped the air and said, "I'm 70-years-old and I just hiked Waynapicchu!" He then asked if we would take a picture of him.
On top overlooking Machu Picchu

Oh yeah! I can't remember where we got our tickets for Machu Picchu and Waynapicchu (if you want to hike Waynapicchu I would recommend getting your tickets in advance because you have to have a permit to hike it) but I know we got them from a website that Trip Advisor recommended; here are two of them:
http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/
http://www.ticket-machupicchu.com/

Collector Van
As I said above, for our train home we chose a stop before the Cuzco stop by accident, oops. We tried to change our train ride ticket but we waited until it was two late but the train attendant did tell us there would be busses that we could take from our stop over to Cuzco. Long story short, we ended up catching what is called a collector van, instead of a bus (it was cheaper and Krista felt comfortable with it and so I was onboard). It's a van where the driver drives around shouting out their window, "Cuzco! Cuzco!" and then you flag them down and they collect people as they drive through the streets and once they are full they take off to the destination. It was amazing, we would drop people off at these tiny villages along the way and pick more up. My heart ached for these people who lived waiting for something to work out for them; i.e. a car headed in the direction of their home with space in it.
As the car started off the first time, the car took off flying through the streets I said to Krista, "Should we put our seatbelts on?" Then we both said, "Nah!" and busted up laughing... famous last words... right?